On Matsu Island, which belongs to Taiwan and lies not far from mainland China, stands the Zhenge Daidan Memorial Park, which features a large wall bearing the inscription ‘Sleeping on Spears, Awaiting the Dawn’ (枕戈待旦). The wall forms a narrow, four-storey building situated in the centre of the park. The inscription was penned in 1958 by President Chiang Kai-shek during his visit to encourage the armed forces to retake the mainland. Today, the site houses a private café and a shop selling local specialities. Sipping a cup of good coffee here in the gentle breeze, whilst taking in the view, is a very relaxing experience.

The original meaning of ‘Sleeping on Spears, Awaiting the Dawn’ is to sleep with one’s head on a weapon whilst waiting for daybreak; it describes a state of constant vigilance in which one is prepared for battle and does not dare to sleep soundly.

Taiwan’s approach to its own history, the democratic developments of recent decades and the associated repurposing of formerly military sites cast these into absurdity and unintended comedy in the face of a looming conflict. Yet for the people of Taiwan, these are a reality that influences their daily lives.

The Taiwan Strait is one of the key geopolitical flashpoints of our time. A conflict between China and the United States over the Taiwan Strait. This is not primarily a military confrontation or a future war, but a political conflict. One that is already shaping the lives of Taiwan’s inhabitants in many ways. The conflict over sovereignty between China and Taiwan stems from the unresolved civil war of the 1940s. The island nation has been self-governing for 70 years and no longer sees itself as part of China. Furthermore, the balance of power between the two major powers, China and the United States, has shifted and will do so again in the foreseeable future. Until the mid-2030s, China will hold the upper hand in a military confrontation, thanks to its economic rise and rearmament through military reform, which is aimed at better preparing the military for a confrontation with the United States.

Control of the Pacific lies with Taiwan; both the influence of the United States and that of China are directed towards Taiwan. In the event of war, Taiwan represents a crucial military-strategic point.

Furthermore, the question arises as to whether a military conflict can be necessary or sensible at all, when history and the everyday lives of the inhabitants already tell us otherwise.